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Auto Loan Calculator

Calculate your monthly car payment, compare loan terms, and see the true cost of financing. Works for new and used vehicles.

$
$
14.3% of vehicle price
$

Loan Term

5 years
Monthly Payment
$587
/month for 60 months
Vehicle Price$35,000
Down Payment−$5,000
Trade-In Value$0
Loan Amount$30,000
Total Interest
$5,219
Total Cost
$40,219

Term Comparison

TermMonthlyInterest
48 mo$711$4,150
60 mo$587$5,219
72 mo$504$6,309

Click a row to select that term

Last updated: March 2026Reviewed by CalculWise editorial team
Methodology: Standard auto loan amortization with principal, interest, and total cost calculation.
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How to Calculate Your Car Payment

Buying a car is one of the largest purchases most people make, and understanding how auto loans work can save you thousands of dollars. A car payment is calculated using the same amortization formula as a mortgage — the key variables are the loan amount, interest rate, and loan term. The loan amount is simply the vehicle price minus your down payment and any trade-in value.

This calculator does the math instantly: enter the vehicle price, your down payment, trade-in value, interest rate, and preferred term, and you'll see your monthly payment, total interest, and total cost. The term comparison table shows how choosing a different loan length affects both your monthly budget and your overall expense.

Understanding Auto Loan Interest Rates

Your interest rate is the single biggest factor (besides loan amount) in determining how much you'll pay over the life of your loan. Auto loan rates vary widely based on several factors:

  • Credit score — This is the most significant factor. Borrowers with excellent credit (750+) can qualify for rates as low as 3.5%, while those with fair credit (620–679) may see rates of 8–12% or higher. Before shopping for a car, check your credit score and consider improving it if needed.
  • New vs. used — New car loans typically carry lower interest rates than used car loans. The difference can be 1–3 percentage points because new cars are considered lower risk by lenders.
  • Loan term — Longer loan terms often come with higher interest rates. A 72-month loan may have a rate 0.5–1% higher than a 48-month loan from the same lender.
  • Lender type — Credit unions typically offer the lowest rates, followed by banks, then dealer financing. Always get pre-approved before visiting a dealership so you have a baseline to compare against dealer offers.

Here is how your credit score affects the actual rate and total cost on a $30,000 auto loan, based on FTC Auto Loan guidance and current Experian average rate data:

Credit Score TierTypical Rate (New Car)Monthly Payment (60mo)Total Interest Paid
Excellent (750+)4.5%$559$3,540
Good (700–749)6.0%$580$4,799
Fair (650–699)9.0%$623$7,371
Poor (600–649)14.0%$698$11,874
Very Poor (under 600)20%+$793$17,592

The difference between excellent and poor credit on this single $30,000 loan: $8,334 in extra interest — nearly a third of the car's price. If your credit score is below 700, consider spending 6–12 months improving it before financing a vehicle.

The True Cost of Longer Loan Terms

It's tempting to choose a longer loan term for the lower monthly payment, but this decision comes at a significant cost. Consider a $30,000 loan at 6.5%: a 48-month term costs $4,125 in interest, while a 72-month term costs $6,375 — that's $2,250 more for the same car, simply because you're paying interest for two additional years.

Longer terms also increase the risk of negative equity — owing more than the car is worth. Cars depreciate fastest in their first few years, and with a 72 or 84-month loan, your balance may exceed the car's value for years. This becomes a problem if you need to sell, trade in, or if the car is totaled and insurance pays only market value.

How Much Should You Put Down on a Car?

A larger down payment reduces your loan amount, which lowers both your monthly payment and total interest paid. Financial experts generally recommend:

  • New cars: 20% down — This covers the initial depreciation hit (new cars lose 20–30% of value in the first year) and helps you avoid negative equity from day one.
  • Used cars: 10% down — Used cars depreciate more slowly, so a smaller percentage is usually sufficient to maintain positive equity.

Even if you can't reach 20%, any down payment is better than none. Putting $3,000 down on a $35,000 car at 6.5% for 60 months saves about $700 in interest compared to financing the full amount. A trade-in works the same way — it reduces the loan amount and your overall cost.

48 vs. 60 vs. 72 Month Comparison: The Real Numbers on a $30K Car

Using a $30,000 loan at 6.5% interest (good credit, new car), here is exactly how loan term affects your monthly payment, total interest, and total cost. Values are from Kelley Blue Book standard amortization calculations:

Loan TermMonthly PaymentTotal PaidTotal InterestExtra Cost vs. 48-Month
48 months (4 yrs)$712$34,196$4,196
60 months (5 yrs)$587$35,210$5,210+$1,014
72 months (6 yrs)$505$36,378$6,378+$2,182
84 months (7 yrs)$446$37,481$7,481+$3,285

Choosing 84 months over 48 months saves $266/month but costs $3,285 more overall — and leaves you with 3.5 extra years of payments. Meanwhile, a new car loses approximately 20% of its value in year one and 15% in year two (source: Edmunds depreciation data). A $30,000 car worth $24,000 after year one while you owe $28,500 on an 84-month loan means you're $4,500 underwater — a vulnerable financial position if you need to sell or if the car is totaled.

GAP Insurance: What It Is and When You Need It

Guaranteed Asset Protection (GAP) insurance covers the “gap” between what you owe on your auto loan and what your car is currently worth (its actual cash value, or ACV) if it is totaled or stolen. Your standard auto insurance policy pays only the ACV — not your remaining loan balance.

Example: You owe $28,000 on a car worth $22,000 (negative equity after rapid first-year depreciation). The car is totaled. Your insurer pays $22,000. Without GAP coverage, you owe the remaining $6,000 out of pocket — on a car you no longer have. GAP insurance typically costs $20–$40/month added to your auto policy (dramatically cheaper than the $400–$700 dealers charge to add it to your loan). It's most valuable when:

  • You put less than 20% down on a new car
  • Your loan term is 60 months or longer
  • You rolled negative equity from a trade-in into the new loan

New vs. Used: Which Is the Better Financial Decision?

From a purely financial standpoint, used cars (2–3 years old) often offer the best value. The previous owner absorbed the steepest depreciation, and modern cars are built to last well over 100,000 miles. A certified pre-owned (CPO) vehicle provides the balance of value and reliability, often with manufacturer-backed warranties.

That said, new cars offer advantages: the latest safety technology, full warranty coverage, lower interest rates, and the peace of mind of knowing the vehicle's complete history. The right choice depends on your priorities, budget, and how long you plan to keep the vehicle. If you buy new and keep the car for 10+ years, the depreciation cost spreads out and the total cost of ownership may be comparable to buying used.

Tips for Getting the Best Auto Loan

  • Get pre-approved — Apply with your bank or credit union before visiting a dealer. This gives you leverage to negotiate and a baseline rate to compare.
  • Keep the term at 60 months or less — Shorter terms save thousands in interest and keep you in positive equity.
  • Negotiate the total price, not the payment — Dealers can manipulate monthly payments by extending the term. Focus on the out-the-door price first, then discuss financing.
  • Watch for add-ons — Extended warranties, gap insurance, and paint protection rolled into the loan increase your total cost. Evaluate each separately and decline what you don't need.
  • Consider the total cost, not just the payment — Use the term comparison table above to see how different loan lengths affect total interest. A lower payment isn't always the better deal.

Frequently Asked Questions

How is a monthly car payment calculated?

Monthly car payments use the standard amortization formula. The loan amount (vehicle price minus down payment and trade-in) is combined with the interest rate and term length to determine a fixed monthly payment. This calculator handles the math automatically — just enter your numbers and see instant results.

What is a good interest rate for a car loan in 2026?

For new cars, rates between 3.5% and 6.5% are considered good, depending on your credit score. Used car rates are typically 1–3% higher. Credit unions often offer the most competitive rates. Check your rate before shopping, and don't accept dealer financing without comparing it to pre-approved offers.

How much should I put down on a car?

Aim for 20% on new cars and 10% on used cars. A larger down payment reduces your monthly payment, lowers total interest, and protects against negative equity. If you have a trade-in, its value effectively serves as additional down payment.

Is a longer or shorter car loan better?

Shorter loans (36–48 months) save significantly on interest but have higher monthly payments. Longer loans (72–84 months) offer lower payments but cost thousands more in total interest and increase negative equity risk. A 60-month term is widely considered the best balance. Use the comparison table above to see the exact difference.

Should I include my trade-in in the deal?

A trade-in reduces the amount you need to finance, saving you money on interest. However, you may receive more by selling your car privately. Compare the dealer's trade-in offer to private sale values on Kelley Blue Book or Edmunds before deciding.

Should I pay cash or finance a car even if I can afford to pay cash?

If you can secure a low interest rate (under 4%), financing while keeping your cash invested often makes mathematical sense. Cash that stays invested in an index fund earning a historical 10% annually generates more wealth than the 3.5% you're paying in loan interest. The arbitrage is about 6.5 percentage points per year — meaningful over a 5-year loan term. However, this logic assumes you actually invest the cash rather than spend it elsewhere, and that market returns materialize as expected. For people who value the psychological simplicity of debt-free car ownership, paying cash provides guaranteed “return” equal to the loan rate. Run both scenarios with the CFPB Auto Loan Worksheet to decide which approach aligns with your situation.

Assumptions & Limitations

  • Simple interest amortization: This calculator uses standard amortizing loan math where interest is calculated on the remaining balance each month. Dealer financing arrangements (e.g., simple interest vs. precomputed interest loans) may differ slightly in how extra payments are applied.
  • Sales tax not included: Vehicle sales tax varies by state (0%–10%+) and is typically added to the financed amount or paid upfront. This calculator uses the vehicle price as entered — add sales tax to the price if you plan to finance it.
  • Rate estimates are illustrative: Interest rates shown in examples are based on average market rates for the given credit tier. Your actual rate depends on your credit profile, lender, loan term, and whether the vehicle is new or used.

Edge Cases to Know

  • Negative equity rollover: If you owe more on your current vehicle than it is worth (negative equity), dealers may offer to roll the remaining balance into your new loan. This increases the total financed amount and compounds your debt — avoid this if possible by paying down the difference before trading in.
  • Dealer-arranged financing markup: When a dealer arranges your financing through a bank or captive lender, they often add a markup (called a "dealer reserve") of 1–2 percentage points above the buy rate. Getting pre-approved from your own bank or credit union before visiting the dealership gives you a baseline to negotiate against.
  • Manufacturer incentive rates: Automakers sometimes offer promotional financing rates (0%–1.9% APR) that are dramatically below market. These rates typically require excellent credit (720+) and may require forgoing a cash rebate. Run both scenarios — subsidized rate vs. rebate + market rate — to find the better deal.

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